Martin de Rusett takes us on a whistle-stop tour of fish-friendly wines.
When you read ‘great wines’, do you immediately think of great, as in taste and value, or does your imagination take you to Grand Cru Burgundies, Cru Classé Clarets and other top wines around the world? I think that for many of us, it may be a mixture of both and it is on that premise that my fishy thoughts are collected.
There is, of course, a second part to the title this month; when you
read “to accompany fish”, do you immediately think of “….and chips” or
do you dreamily drift off to halibut, turbot or lobster? Again, I think
many of us will be split on that point too. So, here we go off on a
“bit of something for everyone” whistle-stop tour of fish-friendly
wines.
What I have found over the years is that I have seldom held a glass of
white, light red or rosé wine in my hand that has immediately cast
doubts about its ability to complement almost any fish. Although, it
has to be said, I have found many wines that, given half a chance, I
would rather have shaken over the fish, rather than have been subjected
to sipping the stuff from a glass.
Now I’m no great Fish & Chips expert but I do know that plaice, cod
and haddock have a bit of flavour and don’t want to be overpowered by
hot-climate chardonnays, so my best advice is to stay in Europe when
picking the right wine: Pinot Grigio or Verdicchio from Italy, Vinho
Verde from Portugal and almost anything unoaked and white from southern
France. If your preference is for something slightly off-dry, then
Pinot Blanc from Alsace is a treat worth savouring, or why not revive
an interest in wines from Germany (especially the Mosel Valley). If you
like bone-dry, then Sauvignon should be added to your list. I haven’t
even touched on rosés and light reds but don’t overlook these either.
Finding accompaniments to the likes of halibut, salmon, turbot and
shellfish is a book in itself; however, I can submit a few sweeping
generalisations to get the taste buds titillated. The guidance can only
start with an assessment of the body and texture of the fish once
cooked. If it is at all oily, like mackerel, choose a wine with
slightly higher acidity. Although confessing to a preference for red
wine with most foods, I have made some mouth-puckering mistakes where
fish is concerned. Fish with the firmest texture, like monkfish,
swordfish, snapper and lobster, can taste fantastic with quite
full-bodied reds, so my advice would be to limit a liberal attitude to
this grouping. Lighter, flaky fish are best with crisp, fruity wines
with a minimum of oak. If making your mind up is an issue, you simply
cannot go wrong with rosé – and, at the moment, it’s terribly trendy to
be seen drinking pink!
All a bit non-committal really, as advice and guidance goes, so it is
time to stick my neck out. With good old Chish and Fips - mine’s the
haddock - I am going for a 2006 Viura, from Bodegas Artesa in Rioja. At
£6.59 per bottle it is fresh, fruity and has a distinctive, but not
overwhelming, flavour.
The oily, grilled mackerel (pop in a couple of quarters of lemon, where
the guts were, before you start grilling) will go well with the
elegant, gunmetal and fruitiness of crisp Sauvignon in Jean Pabiot’s
2005 Pouilly Fumé, Domaine de Fines Caillottes, at £12.99 per bottle.
I cannot make my mind up between a red mullet or a skate but I am sure
that either will do justice to my bottle of 2006 Chenin Blanc from
Klippenkop in Robertson, South Africa. At £6.99 per bottle, it is
fruity, zesty, with good body and just off-dry and the winery’s name
makes me think of Thelwell for some reason.
Now, with my halibut, I have the problem of which “great” wine to
choose. I will have to open both! From the southern end of Burgundy,
one choice has to be the 2004 Montagny ler Cru, Domaine de Montorge,
from Flandre Père et Fils, at £13.49 per bottle. It is medium bodied,
very lightly oaked and the chardonnay is showing that lovely, gentle
mineral edge. The other has to be the 2002 Château Larose Trintaudon at
£13.99 per bottle, a remarkable Cru Bourgeois Haut-Médoc that is a
60/40 blend of cabernet sauvignon and merlot. With a gently cassis
opening, light, fresh middle and a medium finish, this wine can get
even better with a few more years maturation.
All my recommendations may be purchased by good old fashioned,
dependable, human contact over the telephone on 01580 880230 along with
many other wines that may take your fancy.
Did I forget a recommendation for shellfish? There’s a fabulous
Cabernet Sauvignon Rose from Navarra. Oh well, another time perhaps.
Boisson Bien!
Martin de Rusett owns Winelines, a coprporate and private wine tasting event company. www.winelines.co.uk
