Dismiss hideous memories of waxy
cheddar and tinned pineapple, says wine editor Martin de Rusett -
cheese and wine are meant to be
For many of us, wine and cheese evokes hideous memories of cubes
of waxy, tasteless cheddar joined with cubes of tinned pineapple, or
white pickled onions, skewered onto cocktail sticks and ill-matched
with the cheapest wine that the local off-licence could muster.
However, this article will not be dedicated to resurrecting the wine and cheese parties of a miss-spent youth so, leaving these bleak pictures behind, and moving quickly on…The association of wine and cheese is seemingly as old as the hills. Yet, despite the long historical partnership, there has probably never been a more exciting time to make a connection between these two key, if not essential, mainstays of our diet.
It was not possible, until recently, to access the enormous selection of cheeses that are readily available on today’s high street. Quite apart from the scope of hard and soft varieties, there are now, in addition to the choice of cow, sheep or goat’s milk cheeses, buffalo and yak milk cheeses and soya milk varieties to mention but three. Even the most modest delicatessen will offer a notable assortment.
It is equally fair to say that there is now a greater selection of grape varieties, and their resulting blends, than ever before and from an ever increasing number of countries of origin. Don’t underestimate the wines coming over from Thailand, India, Brazil, Canada and China, for it is not that so long ago that we were inclined to mock Australian wines and remember that there were no Sauvignon grapes planted commercially in Marlborough, New Zealand until 1973 – now there’s a thought! The range of wines that we have available to us now has never been equalled.
So where to start when trying for the perfect match of cheese with wine? Your own preference should steer you. Clearly, as a wine-man, I look for cheese to match with my wines. Doubtless, Ros Windsor, managing director of Paxton & Whitfield, that wonderful, mouth-watering, cheese establishment in Jermyn Street (and in Stratford and Bath now), would take the other approach.
What about the stereotypical matches? Well, clearly, they have stood the test of time but, Vine readers will know that my aim is to enliven any debate and in this month’s issue my recommendations are going to give some great wines a seductive new partner and some noble cheeses a fresh new soulmate.
Here is a new partner for Port, which in itself is a vast subject, so I’ll limit myself to Quinta do Noval LB, a smooth, succulent, vintage character, from a great House, at £9.99 per bottle; step aside much loved Stilton and come in mature hard cheese, such as Cheddar. Here’s a perfect opportunity to loudly clang a local bell. If you have not already discovered Winterdale Shaw from Fairseat Lane, Wrotham call Robin Betts on 01732 820021 before you read another word!
Now you can still enjoy the Stilton with a lightly chilled 2003 Domaine de Noble from Loupiac, in the environs of Bordeaux. This is a delicious treat at £13.99 per bottle, with the additional bonus of going very well with the dessert too.
Another great blue, Roquefort, traditionally paired with claret, among others, is well worth introducing to a 2004 Bodegas Lan Crianza, a seriously palatable and well balanced red from Rioja at £8.99 per bottle.
If you are partial to the likes of Camembert or Brie, I must extol the virtues of a remarkable rosé that I’ve just tasted and enjoyed: 2006 Redfin Rosé from Australia’s Adelaide Hills. At £6.99 per bottle it is an interesting, vibrant, fruity blend of Sangiovese and Merlot. I am always intrigued by these ‘new world’ blends which seldom disappoint.
The sheep and goat’s milk cheese fans among you would do well to encourage the revival of the fortunes of a grossly underestimated fortified wine. Lustau’s Pedro Ximenez is a golden brown, very sweet, smooth, luscious sherry from an impeccable source and irresistible at £15.99 per bottle and, at the risk of causing offence to traditionalists, really rather good when lightly chilled.
Finally, my out-on-a-limb choice is Champagne, a delightful, if decadent, partner to a hard, mild cheese, such as Cheshire or Wensleydale. Nibble and sip, morning, noon or night and you don’t have to buy the big brand names either. I found the exceptionally well balanced Esterlin Cuvée Sélection Brut to be both fine and elegant at £15.99 per bottle.
Linger over your cheese and wine. Who knows, the coffee that follows may only be instant! À bientot.
All my recommendations may be purchased by good old fashioned, dependable, human contact over the telephone on 01580 880230 along with many other wines that may take your fancy.
